I took a break from my 18th century half-boned stays to work on my silk plaid Dickens dress, but I recently attended a sewing party where I made some more progress on the stays.
I put in the horizontal bones, and most of the long vertical bones, and the stays are starting to take shape!
However, I am going to have to make a modification to the boning in the tabs. The JP Ryan pattern has a lot of the vertical boning channels along seams, which is quite handy, but when they get to the tabs there is no room for binding. I will shorten the boning and sew additional short channels.
Some parts of the pattern already have shorter channels for boning in the tabs, but they are still on the edge. I have added an additional row of stitching nearby to move the boning channel. The white pin shows the original stitch line, and the red pin shows the one I added.
To give you an idea, here are some hasty crooked red pen markings on my pattern pieces:
See parts 1 and 2.
Unless the bone is in the binding. How strange.
I thought at first I could just make sure the binding is a little wider than the boning, but it would still be a problem when I had to curve the binding in the corners between tabs. I would have to sew through some of the boning, which doesn’t seem like a good idea.
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